Week 4: Echuca to Barham - 1525 km remaining

Yesterday marked a major milestone—Cy and I completed 1000km along the Murray River, with 340km covered on foot and 640km by rowing and paddling!

Our 7 days of paddling took us through the Gunbower national park, Cohuna, Koondrook, and then Barham.

The past week has been particularly tough and for a change, I wanted to let you know of the challenges of an expedition of this magnitude.

Leaving the comfort of Echuca behind was daunting, and strong winds made progress even more difficult and seeing your hourly distance dwindle is quite frustrating.

Rain & Mud

The weather turned, drenching us in rain and coating everything in thick, sticky mud. At times, I felt like I’d grown 10cm with the layers caking under my shoes.

My boat has been perpetually clogged, requiring constant cleaning just to keep my seat moving down the rail. As we are filtering river water, you grow more concerned looking onto green and muddy waters.

The colder temperatures haven’t helped the homesickness. Waking up in the dark and packing up gear and sliding around the mud or sinking knee deep has been very frustrating.

The Reality of Paddling

While many romanticise paddling the river, the truth is—it’s really hard! Six hours of rowing each day, battling winds, dodging submerged logs, and the currents that sends my boat through many different wash cycles and struggling to find decent campsites at the end of a long day. Packing and unpacking wet gear is exhausting, and I am beyond tired of rice and pasta.

Even Cy and I, usually in sync at home, our dynamics are tested daily!

Gunbower National Park & Wildlife

Of course it’s the great experiences that make up for all the difficulties. Passing through Gunbower National Park was a great experience. Cy spotted his first kingfisher, and I watched an eagle attempt to take a large fish from the water, unsuccessful. Often I get glimpses of giant cod or yellow bellied fish jump out of the water and once I passed a fish that was at least one meter long, the water was shallow and I could almost touch its back.

Injuries & Recovery

Unfortunately, one of my ribs has started to hurt. I am concerned about the risk of a stress fracture—common in rowers, given the strain, weight of my boat and my light body. To prevent further damage, we’re taking a three-day break in Barham while I reassess my rowing form.

I have also lost quite a bit of weight and, given that I am already slim, not desired.

I’ve already worn through my first set of gloves, my hands have calluses, and sitting is painful. We’ve had to stop every 10-15km to relieve my bottom.

Our First Lock

Passing through Lock 26 was a new experience—being lowered inside a chamber as water rushed out through enormous openings. Thankfully, Tom the lock master reassured me I wouldn’t be sucked away! I had to tuck my oars in to get through the big gate and being locked inside a chamber is not feeling that great to be honest.

Pushing Forward

It’s been a mentally and physically grueling week. Rest is now our priority—to maintain morale and, most importantly, prevent serious injuries. A rib fracture would end this expedition for me.

On rest days we wash our gear, shop, download footage, blog as we often do not have service when entering remote areas.

Thanks for your continuous support! I know this expedition is a long one to engage with and it can feel lonely for us at times so we really appreciate any contributions and words of encouragement.

Next journey sees us move towards Swan Hill and Tooleybuc.